Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and visitors alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it joins a international community of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its profound food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city is little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always defined its essence: an immense devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their children are unwilling to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to learn these stories and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
