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When assembling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate well-known high-end establishments. But, situated high among these food giants is a simple salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has made the family utterly astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their humble place earning such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary honour.